20 January 2013

happy to be alive

My cousin Cinda arrived from the UK on Thursday night. The next day, knowing that the forecast for the weekend was wall-to-wall rain and snow, we took advantage of a pearl of a morning to re-visit my beloved Signaraux. We weren't disappointed. The new snow was cold and dry - and at times impossibly fluffy; the tree sculptures the weirdest and most beautiful yet:






For once the wind chill was moderate and we had a wonderful couple of hours, happy to be alive, before returning to the car. In time to be home for Juan's (early) return from CH. Except that things didn't go according to plan. At all.

Driving between the Signaraux and Festinière I braked on a small curve. The rest is a blur - we are watching a film sequence, it's happening to someone else. No, we are in it, this is us spinning 180 degrees and then sliding off the road. How many times have I seen this kind of accident on mountain roads. Now I know how it happens. And why having only two snow tyres is a such a false economy.


 And once again we are happy to be alive.

There were two ways for passers-by to react. Either "Are you all right?" (we were) or "How did it happen?" - from just one grinning fellow. Thankfully, the former - concern for our well-being - dominated all but one of our exchanges with the friendliest, most concerned and kind people imaginable. First the post-woman, almost as shocked as we were as we surveyed the aftermath. She took us back up to Signaraux village and we used a villager's phone to summon help. This woman pressed cups of tea, chocolates, biscuits... all very welcome. But unfortunately had to leave shortly afterwards, at which point we had to brave minus 6 degrees on the edge of the road.

And so began an unparalleled saga of "road rescue". For a further two hours we paced up and down to keep warm, distracting ourselves by watching coal tits feeding on grease balls hanging, bizarrely, from surrounding trees (en pleine nature - why? how?), me giving Cinda French lessons. Our instinct had of course been to get a ride home, but the rescue organisation had insisted it was obligatory to remain with the vehicule. Eventually I flagged down a motorist to use her phone. And discovered that Europ Assistance had forgotten all about us. At the same time I broke the news to Juan, just arrived home from CH. Forty minutes later Juan's arrival on the scene coincided with that of the rescue service man, in a small transporter. With his dog but without the equipment needed to haul the car up the slope.

While Cinda and I warmed up in Juan's car the rescue man stared at the Mégane, shaking his head, nonplussed. Eventually Juan had to put it to him that the only solution was to rdv the following morning with proper gear. Dear Juan then made the early start. And found no one there. Because the lorry had been delayed putting on chains to get up the slope. Once by the car a further 45 minutes were  needed to try pulling from different angles - the transporter itself in danger of slipping off the road. And ça y est, the Mégane is now in the Gières Renault garage awaiting the loss adjuster's call on whether it is reparable or not.

The rest of the weekend was of course overshadowed by this event. But we nevertheless kept our plan of spending a night in the gîte at St Disdier, Dévoluy. We didin't see the area in the best conditions (snow, sleet, rain) but it gave us a taste of the area in winter. A refaire at a more auspicious moment.


13 January 2013

from paddling to pistes

From the bosom of  the Sánchez family, and days eating extended meals en famille and idling the sun-drenched Albacete streets... we drove back north... and into a ball of grey cotton wool: Isère doing its usual winter temperature-inversion trick, sealing us under a thick slab of cloud for days at a time.

The 1150 km drive was feasible because of the empty Spanish motorways, but we needed a couple of days afterwards to recover, unloading the cargo of wine, charcuterie and other essential purchases unavailable in the north of Europe (Juan - dental floss??).

To relaunch ourselves into winter, and in particular skiing, we headed for Chamrousse. It was a mixed experience: I was completely freaked out by the high-speed pistie beasties and (Juan's observation) skied like a block of wood. Then Juan came a cropper just before our last run, falling off a small wall of snow and thwacking himself just below his right kidney. He has made some recovery during the week but skiing is still off the agenda for him.

So this weekend, confidence low, I was in two minds whether to chance going out with the CAF (Club Alpin Français), not known for its TLC, for their ski training. Thank goodness "nothing ventured..." won out. This is what Vaujany looked like yesterday:



looking towards Col du Sabot
Better conditions would be hard to imagine, a recent snow fall creating huge white pillows of virgin snow, giant icicles hanging from the rocks (I would have loved to have photographed these but my frozen hands were already in danger of dropping the camera with these snaps!), and empty pistes.

André helping Salem - on his butt for the zillionth time. A place I well know.
A very tender and loving CAF group leader gave me some helpful advice. The result: for the first time ever I found I could ski steep slopes with some degree of control, and I had an utterly blissful day. Juan was just a little bit jealous. I hope he will seek medical advice so that he can speed up the healing process and get into the mountains before the snow all melts...

Today we were in Grenoble at a lovely exhibition, "Les Alpes de Doisneau",with shots from his early career:

"Le rêve du petit Michel", 1936
Fun to see places we know - Laffrey, St Véran, Col d'Izoard etc - more than half a century ago at a time when cattle and humans shared a single living space during the winter months and where the skiing minority had to walk up most of the hills they skied down, an activity now reserved for the fittest and keenest skiers only (though after Saturday's experience I haven't given up all hope). And Juan now realises that Doisneau is the creator of the world-famous "Le baiser de l'hôtel de ville".

05 January 2013

Almeria: one last post

On our last day we walked to Majada Redonda caldera...


... with no particular agenda. Near the top I hear a cry and know that either Juan has broken his ankle or - as is the case - he is having an epiphany: the discovery of a rare ("red list" protected), minute daffodil:


Juan is beside himself and I have a long wait as he documents from every possible angle.

Later that day we celebrate New Year's eve, first by watching the sun set at Cabo de Gata (see earlier post) and then back at the casa with a bottle of champagne and some local fish. The perfect end to a perfect holiday.

03 January 2013

White villages, wells and mills

Nijar: commercial, artisan and agricultural centre...




... and springboard for the village of Huebro:



... the only place in the entire holiday where we saw running water:


... and where a friendly 10-year-old, staying with her goat-owning grannie during the school holidays, showed us around (and sold us a cheese):


Nearer home we walked past this hamlet...



... with its ancient well...


... and wind mill.



... and here's our home sweet home (impossible to shoot in winter as it it permanently back-lit)...


Mines, quarries and dams

In our quest for flowers and beaches we barely scratched the surface of the industrial history that we tumbled on wherever we drove or walked.

Isabel II reservoir was the biggest Spanish hydraulic project of the 19th century, and the biggest fiasco: the dam silted up and the construction was abandoned. Driving there along a 4WD track a sign warned that the road would narrow. I love this - of all the risks this has to be minimal. Shortly afterward the road became impassably rutted. Then, at the dam itself, with no safety barriers and open access to the derelict building adjacent, the possibilities for mishap were rich. But, as our trusty tourist pamphlet proclaimed, "The wind, the birds and the water course will please your eardrums". And so they did.





Walking round the coast from Los Escullos to San José we passed a former gypsum mine...


... again with a ruined (administrative? residential?) building open to all. Built solidly, it looked misplaced in its isolated semi-arid surroundings:



A renovated fort...

... part of a series of coastal fortifications, was testimony to the threat of pirates and invasions from everyone and everything (including the English).

Saviour or devil incarnate? - the tomato industry

Time for a reality check: all is not exactly hunky dory in the Cabo de Gata. Especially coming from France, with its small-scale producers and agriculture that brings people together in a celebration of the good things in life, the shimmering sea of plastic was jaw-dropping. The industrial monoculture was all the more bizarre because of its invisibility - it took us a while to even glimpse that the crop was tomatoes (the shot below a rare occurrence of an open panel).




Juan read in a local newspaper the "good news" that one dynamic producer is expanding, and creating 300 new jobs in plena campana. Yippee. Even more out-of-season fruit can be transported across the planet to support our voracious demand. And yet... without this source of employment families would be forced to seek work elsewhere, as has happened at other times in history.

The environmental protection afforded to areas like the Salinas, described in my last post, is fragile: we saw the encroachment by new developments on its fringes; San José is continuing its urbanisation, eating up the surrounding countryside - new build visible even from Monsul beach. Elsewhere the thinking didn't seem joined up: Monsul would be pristine had the sizeable carpark been accompanied by a simple dry toilet. As it is, the bushes by the beach are confetti'd with loo roll.

And let's not even talk about the coastal development either side of the national park where red-faced Brits eat "nuggets chicken" between rounds of golf. Enough.

Back to happy holiday shots in the next post.

Birds, salt and dereliction: Las Salinas de Cabo Gata

After spending the day on Monsul beach we drove around to the west side of the Cabo de Gata to catch this idyllic view of the Salinas, now a bird reserve. Far away we (or, rather, Juan's super duper lens) could see flamingos.



Adjacent to the reserve, infrastructure from the former salt-panning and fishing industries lay dormant.





One sunset wasn't enough: we were back again on New Year's Eve, this time the other side of the reserve looking towards the sea. It was a last-minute decision and a wonderful gift, setting us up for a quiet celebration à deux and then a very early night!


02 January 2013

Monsul beach

We fell in love with this place. Juan finding Androcymbrium europaeum (endemic to Almeria and - we later learned - flowering at its best in 10 years), in the plain adjacent to the beach...



... just about made his holiday.

And 17 degrees, whacky "Gaudiesque" volcanic rock formations, and endless expanses of sand made mine:






While I read, Juan had a ball stomping around the nearby hills:






We then hiked along the dirt road now part of the (limited) network of walking tracks developed by the parque nacional to a point where we could look down on the Cabo itself:


Two days later (having decided to get up early rather than stay up late for the new year) we watched the sun rise over neighbouring Genoveses beach:


... then had the bonus of it re-emerging above cloud as watched from a vantage point above Monsul beach...




I hope we never forget that moment.