a change of scene before winter bites: the Vaucluse

Looking back at my blog post this time last year it looks as though migrating south for a weekend in November is becoming an annual avoid-onset-of-winter event. Random googling took us to a self-catering gîte d'étape near the Mont Ventoux. The approach, via Vacqueyras, Beaume de Venise and the Dentelles de Montmirail, was magical – densely wooded, craggy peaks interspersed with vineyards. Using an ancient map borrowed from Dad, we stopped for a couple of short strolls, taking advantage of the few rays of sun forecast for the weekend:

Beaumes de Venise

The second day –  Sunday – we drove south to Carpentras. Dead as a door nail except for the odd bar...

Later we found a place open on a Sunday, willing to sell us some Côtes du Ventoux (produced by the Cave de Beaumont du Ventoux – 2km from our gîte)...

Rebecca: So, apart from the soil and the climate, what's the difference between Côtes du Ventoux, Vacqueras and so on?
Sales person: Well, the soil is actually quite important.

Duh – stupid am I... it's the whole deal... And the answer is that Vacqueyras soil has bigger stones. They acquire and retain heat more than the Ventoux clay, ensuring a more even heating effect. My mind was not on the game – but luckily Juan was able to concentrate sufficiently to make a good choice.

commemorating a world-recording beating, wine-selling centenarian cyclist...

And then another walk, more or less over the Beaumont du Ventoux vineyards....

Me intoxicated in every sense with this glorious area, so 100% focussed on oenology; Juan sad, as it reminded him of Albacete – and a confused identity (Spanish? European? what is the meaning of it all?).

We had time to take in yet another gorgeous hilltop village (Le Barroux)...

before our second night in the gîte.

Monday rain stopped play, more or less. But I persuaded Juan to break our journey back to Vaulnaveys at Vaison-la-Romaine, dense with archaeological and cultural interest. Forty minutes was very inadequate! But nice to have a sense of unfinished business there.