26 September 2014

the road to Tsumago

See FB timeline for pics.

This is surreal. I'm sitting in a cafe in Tsumago, with wi-fi connection, and "good king Wenceslas" playing. My desire to share, and blogging addiction, not to mention appreciative audience, is creating something of a hamster-wheel syndrome. But the Universe has intervened: the dodgy US connector I've been using to recharge the i-pad has finally fried (fingers crossed it hasn't done irretrievable damage to the i-Pad). Anyway, here goes, note-form this time...

Magome tourist info - I gasp when I read about bears. "Small bear, eat honny only", smiles info lady. Ah, we're talking cuddly Japanese Winnie the Pooh, that's alright, then. Anyway, 2cm bell you can hire is a joke and I decide to chance it without. Signs and bigger bells along the way slightly unnerving.

Pass house with tray of sweet potatoes for sale. Buy one for lunch. All along the way rest rooms, rest spots. Sound of running water: river, water-powered turbines, garden installations, ponds, vegetable-washing systems, you name it.

Lovely path through bamboo forest. Steep ravines shored up, a reminder that this is an unstable, slippy-slidy country. Also noticed evacuation area in village, and warning system in restaurant.

Pass ancient barn where friendly peasant of similar vintage provides elevenses in form of green tea, pickled cucumber and omeboshi plums. A first.

Hot, humid, a light breeze. Perfect for walking.

Arrive Tsumago for Internet cafe pause (too long) and then on to Nagiso to pick up train back to Nagatsugawa. Can't make contact with Masan as number Machiko gave me connects to a puzzled Japanese woman. Emailing works and Dai-chan meets me at the other end. Turns out I was talking to Machiko's grandmother. What?!

Happy to be "home". We have a paying guest, one of Masan's "fans", come to talk with him. Reminds me of how, in former times, people would gather around Percy Smith, at Pilsdon. A similarly charismatic leader.

Over and out before battery fails. Alas and alack...

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