From Torres we arrive back at Puerto Natales. Juan finds time for a hair cut and gets the lowdown from his Santiago émigré barber: nail tyres in winter, salmon-fishing weekends...
A ferry is poised for the cruise up the coast to Puerto Montt. Puerto Montt, midway between Punta Arenas and Santiago, the springboard for the Región de Los Lagos, happens to be our next destination and I can't think of a more romantic way to travel there. But we can't afford the time needed, this trip. Instead, we take the bus direct to Punta Arenas airport the following morning, and take a flight.
On arrival we have a surprise: the vehicle we have hired is a bright red, gas-guzzling jeep. Needed, because of the dirt roads in one of the national parks we will be visiting. As we drive on the motorway, one in three vehicles seem to be similar, no doubt because so much of Chile's road network is unsurfaced.
We overnight at Puerto Varas, a few km north, sleeping in the "junior suite" of a 3 star hotel. It's a suitable resting spot for our fat car; a place where doors are opened for us and beds turned down. (Embarrassing though, as, prior to going out for supper, I'd exploded the contents of my rucksack around the room.) Full marks for the breakfast: cherries, apricots, guacamole, egg, sausages, and a range of cakes - but Nescafé, even in this upmarket place!
The town has many historic buildings, with Germanic-style wooden "shingle" tiles and hotels with names like "The Innsbruck", but not the consistent charm of Puerto Natales and Punta Arenas. Too many architectural mistakes, and a carelessness in the way the lakeside has been developed. The German colonial roots are evident in the names, and abundant German kuchen shops.
At random we choose a restaurant offering an international menu. A well built local makes a pantomime of opening our wine, wrestling with the cork and pressing it hard against her ample bosom as she grunts and grimaces. Having established our nationalities she comments, "opposite poles" and tells us candidly that she wouldn't want to be married to a Spaniard.
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