22 September 2013

an 11th century chapel in the middle of nowhere: San Baudelio de Berlanga

Our initial destination was Cepeda la Mora (Gredos), to meet with Phil. Only in Spain is it possible to contemplate driving such a huge distance with any degree of ease. But even so, it was a slog (for Juan, doing the brunt of the driving) and we were both glad to break the journey with a bit of cultural tourism.


Moron de Almazan - an unexpected  gem lost in the middle of plains of sunflower fields.
Despite cultural vandalism in the early 20th century which resulted in frescos being scraped off the chapel walls and taken to private collections in the US, San Baudelio de Berlanga was a jewel. The only visitors, we enjoy it unencumbered.






Berlanga itself is a pleasant little town. We joined another couple who had phoned a local biddy to show them around the church. Her high-pitched drone was a challenge too much for my Spanish and I drifted off on my own. Out of sight I heard her sudden squawk. And sure enough, one of the group – but not Juan! – was being reprimanded for taking a photo. A few minutes later those of us who weren’t hanging on her every word were more or less told to bugger off!



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