escape from Kyoto

For my last day in Kyoto I day-tripped with Hiroshi to the city of Nara, a former capital of Japan even before Kyoto was. (See FB pics.) The city is more manageable in size than Kyoto, with extensive parkland around the temples and shrines making it pleasantly stroll-able. At Nigatsudo Shrine Hiroshi bought a fortune ticket - something he would normally only do on New Year's Day, to orient his year. It predicted all good things, luckily.

I was attracted to the hill just east of the temples and was going to suggest to Hiroshi that I meet him at the base after a quick sprint up, for the view. But he gamely insisted on joining me. I had a few nervous moments, knowing of his heart condition and that he is 80 years old! But we made it up and down no problem. I don't think Hiroshi has made that kind of climb in decades...

Another highlight was the Isuien garden dating from the Edo and Meiji periods. At this point my cup was overflowing. So, even though Hiroshi was up for yet one more temple, I had to decline - saving my energy for the evening show described in my previous blog.

The following day I travelled from rarified Kyoto, tyrannised by beauty, heavy with history and its sense of self importance, to Kanazawa, a couple of hours north by train. The city was a breath of fresh air, with its wide streets, juxtaposition of new and old: vibrant multinational hotels next to fragile, ancient shacks - such as Pongyi guest house where I stayed. What a cute and homey place Pongyi was. Two tiny rooms stuffed with neatly arranged information, a computer; a kitchen leading to a shower room with a separating screen so close to the stove it looked as though it would catch light; closely spaced bunk beds; the whole place so small that you had to think carefully with each pace you took to ensure you didn't bump into or compromise anyone.

The reason for overnighting at Kanazawa en route to my last Woof destination, flatts.jp, was Kenroukuen landscape garden, famed as one of Japan's big three gardens. I had high expectations. Conceived in the Edo period and opened to the public 1874, it was designed to incorporate the six attributes of a perfect garden: spaciousness, seclusion, artifice, antiquity, watercourses and panoramas. But I was underwhelmed. Perhaps it reveals its full glory in cherry-blossom May. But on this sunny late-October day it looked a little tired.

I have started to feel yearnings for western food. It started the night before when, after seeing the maiko performance, the follow-up should have been an exquisite high-class meal. I ended up having a teriyaki Mc burger, which was as awful as you might imagine. In Kanazawa I found myself in a sandwich joint selling panini. The girl there gave the options. First up: boiled cow stomach. Oh how I hesitated... She then seemed to be offering duck, which sounded hopeful. So I gasped when, seconds later, I was presented with a hot dog, topped with an avalanche of evil-tasting relish. At this point I realised the conflation of "duck" and "dog". Anyway, washed down with some bean and green tea ice cream the event became a distant memory.

At this point I must share some recent toilet anecdotes, all in the last 24 hours. I thought I'd explored all options. Mais non. At Nara, in a very old fashioned cafe, I found a toilet with a furry cover on the seat you sit on. Yes. The next day I heard a recording of running water playing as I sat on a loo in Kanazawa. (You're thinking there was a leak somewhere? There was a speaker, I promise.) And at Pongyi there was a remote control to flush the loo. I say no more.

I was sorry to leave Kanazawa. Within range of the Japanese alps and coast, with its own traditions of geisha, samurai, cuisine, it has everything to recommend it.